McCardell, 1923 in costume designs. u From 1923-25,

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McCardell, Claire





Mandeep Kaur

Student id – 0710997

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Course Code – FAS-104G

Date- 18 January, 2018



u American fashion designer.

u Born in May 24, 1905.

u Died on March 22, 1958.

u Oldest of four children born to Eleanor and Adrian

u She married to Irving D. Harris who was taxes born architect
and he also had two children from an early marriage.

u She is credited with the creation of American

u McCardell, Claire’s life period was difficult and her
work were cut short by a diagnosis of colon cancer in 1957.





u Graduated from Parson and get certificate in 1923 in
costume designs.

u From 1923-25, She joined Hood College, Maryland

u After 2 years of study, she moved to New York and enrolled
in Parsons at New York School of Fine Applied Art.

u She attended Parsons School of Design, New York and
Paris Between 1926-29.



Work Experiences and designs


u After
graduating, she start working at a fashionable dress shops as an odd sketching
work, flower paintings on paper lamp shades. She acting as a fit model for B.
Altman before meeting Robert Turk.

u In
1930, she began working as an assistant designer for Robert Turk.

u Robert
Turk bought McCardell, Claire with him while moving to larger company, Townley

u During
the 1930s, the innovation shows like spaghetti string ties, sashes were began
as well as menswear details would became a part of her signature.

u In the
year of 1938, McCardell, Claire introduced a bias- cut tentlike dress which was
called as ‘Monastic Dress’.

u The look
of ‘Monastic Dress’ was different which include no seamed waist as well as it
hangs loosely, moreover it was designed properly having belt that hugged a
women’s curve gracefully and adds the beauty to her dress.

u The dress
was exclusively sold for $29.95 as well as it was sold out in a day. The amount
of selling was huge at the time so ‘Monastic Dress’ was copied in a wide range.
On the other hand, the price of trying to stop knock- offs drive Townley Frocks
out of business.

u After
the closure of Townley Frocks, Hattie Carnegie hired McCardell, Claire to work
for their designs that was famed dressmaking firm, but the work for their
designs were not gain much success as working as Carnegie’s clients, who were
searching of more elaborating merchandise. The work with Carnegie may not
success but with his company McCardell, Claire met Diana Vreeland who would
became a lifelong friend and champion of McCardell, Claire.

u In 1940,
before leaving Carnegie McCardell, Claire attended her last Parisian fashion
show, preferring from then on to avoid French Revolution on her clothing.

u In Second
World War, the availability of some material was stopped. So, McCardell, Claire
flourished under such restrictions. But it was the luck that McCardell, Claire
was working with fabrics like denim, calico and wool jersey that were easily
available during the Second World War.

u McCardell,
Claire popularized the ballet flat when responding to the shortage of leather,
so to produce a wide range of ballet flats to match her designs by commissioned


u In
1942, she created ‘Popover Dress’.


u This dress was a response to a Harper’s
Bazaar challenge to create something different and special as well as
fashionable you could wear to clean the house and then wear to cocktail party.


u The ‘Popover Dress’ sold for $6.95 as
well as over 75,000 were sold in the first season alone. The ‘Popover Dress’ received
a citation from the American Fashion Critics Association


u She
won a Coty Award in the year of 1943.


   Influences and their designs


u  She was the
first designer who bring us thin strapped evening gowns, zippers as well as
ballet flats.

u Included simple and mix-match sportswear.

u Her influence in Townley also increases.

u She became a partner in the company in 1952.

u She got a women of the year Award from the Women’s
National Press Club.

u In 1990, the Life Magazine named McCardell, Claire one
of the hundred most important Americans of the twentieth century.

u A year later, she was inducted into the Maryland Women’s
Hall of Fame.

u Some fashion designers such as Isaac Mizrahi, Norma
Kamali, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein etc. they all are influenced by the
McCardell, Claire.

u McCardell, Claire’s styles, innovations and influences
on her fashion are as follow;

u For evening wear, McCardell, Claire used jersey,
calico, cotton voiles as well as rayon and calico, seersucker.

u McCardell, Claire gave preference to utilize the easy
and accessible fasteners in clothing like from zippers, to toggles and to rope.

u McCardell, Claire used the idea of separates in the colors
that were coordinated as well as creating the endless configurations which was
revolutionary due to its economy and practicality.

u In the year of 1956, she wrote a book ‘What Shall I
Wear’ which became popular.



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